Tuesday 27 October 2015

Some local wildlife

Those of you who have visited Poppy certainly know about our tortoises and many of you have also seen one or more baby tortoise – not to mention the baby-making that goes on constantly (much worse than the rabbits) and involves much bumping of shells and some ridiculous face-pulling and squeaking on the part of the male (I know there is a joke here…)
But during the heat of summer the babies – and even the larger tortoises – are often hard to find.  At this time, when they need to soak up all the sun they can get, you can hardly walk in the garden without treading on one.  The other day, I found these FOUR gathered together– for a baby tortoise play-date?....
Baby tortoise gathering

And today I found the smallest one I think I have EVER seen…..

People sometimes ask me questions about the tortoises and I can't always answer them so I have now done my homework and here is what I have learned….
They are spur-thighed or ‘Greek tortoises’.  They lay up to about 6 eggs at time in a nest dug by the female, after which she has nothing more to do with the nest or the young, which take about 10 weeks to hatch out.
Even these little tortoises can apparently live well over a hundred years.  So can you tell their age by counting rings?  Sometimes, but some rings rub off while if the tortoise has plenty to eat all year round its shell may not develop distinct rings as it grows.
Star Agama

Here is another little guy I saw while I was in the garden – again most of you have seen these popping in and out of holes in the stone walls round the hotel.  He is – apparently – a Star Agama and is capable of changing colour – mainly lighter or darker.  He is territorial – and sometimes one male may have a ‘harem’.  The head-bobbing which I have noticed they often do when sitting on top of the wall, is apparently a sign of aggression.  Unfortunately it isn’t enough to stop Poppy the lizard-eater.  We rescue them whenever possible but she sometimes gets herself a tasty snack.  Luckily, the article I have just read says they are not considered endangered at all!
Poppy looking innocent - don't believe it!

In contrast, the loggerhead turtles which nest on the beach at Calis as well as at Iztuzu beach in Dalyan, are officially listed as endangered.  There seem to have been more sightings of them this year.  I have had several guests saying they virtually swam into one while swimming in the lagoon at Oludeniz and others who saw them swimming just off the beach at Calis.  Early this summer, we saw several swimming close to the beach late in the afternoon when there were lots of swimmers around.  I was surprised that they would come that close to people.
I have just been looking for any information about how many nests there have been this year but couldn’t find any figures yet.  What I did find was a research paper that suggested that even with all the efforts at conservation, the attempts to protect them (for example making the boats add protective guards to their propellers) and the hospital and rehabilitation centre at Iztuzu, the numbers are still thought to have declined to around 25% of the level of 1995.
And don't forget, turtles and tortoises as a group have been around for more than 100 million years and shared the earth for some 40 million with the dinosaurs!


Monday 19 October 2015

The lazy blogger returns!


I have decided to stop being lazy and start blogging again!  With two more weeks to go before the season finishes it is generally quiet round here and I have time to write.  Then, after we close the hotel and I start giving Turkish lessons I will just have to organize my time a bit better.
Yesterday, I left Kaan in charge of the hotel and had a lovely day off with a friend.  We went to Patara and walked round a small part of the ruins.  Patara was the main naval and trading port of Lycia, as well as the birth-place of St Nicholas.  During Roman times, it became the home to the Government of the Lycian League and the Assembly building has been excavated and repaired in recent years.  Although towns in the League acted autonomously on smaller issues, they came together by sending representatives to this Assembly to decide issues that affected the whole region, such as trading terms and security.  The city of Telmessos, situated where Fethiye is today, was a medium-sized town with  two representatives on the council; Patara, as one of the largest towns, had three. 
Close to the National Assembly building is the theatre and the main street but the ruins cover a huge area and include many temples and baths, and a granary built in 131AD during the visit of Emperor Hadrian – he of wall-building fame.  Excavation of Patara is an ongoing process, but when you look around at the visible remains and imagine what else is hidden beneath the ground you understand that it won’t finish any time soon – and this is just one of hundreds of such sites in Turkey!
Patara
Our niece, Yagmur, is studying archaeology at Konya University and has spent the last two summers with a group of her peers and their professor, working at Knidos, near Datca.  Knidos was a Greek city located on a promontory where the Aegean Sea meets the Mediterranean and was well-known as a centre of wine production.  I used to think I should have studied archaeology, but I’m not sure I have the patience for it!  Nor do I fancy working as she did moving barrows full of earth in temperatures of 40°C.

Anyway, after our bit of history yesterday we went down to have a drink on the beautiful sandy beach of Patara, then went on to Kalkan which is one of my favourite places for a day out.  We had some lunch, then browsed the shops.  Kalkan residents are very good at taking care of stray animals and my favourite shop is always host to a variety of cats and dogs who take advantage of the warm welcome.

Kalkan has stunning views and some great cafes and restaurants; I always used to think it had much nicer shops than Fethiye – boutiques selling lovely clothes, art galleries and shops selling tasteful souvenirs (rather than stuffed turtles and fez!).  These days, however, I must say that Paspatur – the Old Town in Fethiye – is just as nice.  The buildings have been done up, there are some fantastic shops and even the streets have been improved with attractive overhead lighting.
Paspatur (Fethiye Old Town)

Did you know?  They say that if you drink water from the spring in Paspatur you will return to Fethiye.  Well, there are many people who return year after year, but I think there is a little more drawing them back than the water!