Another pile of old stones - Kibyra

Yesterday, on our way back from Salda Lake, I finally got to see a place I’ve wanted to visit for a while.  It’s called Kibyra and it’s about 100km from Fethiye.  It’s basically another pile of old stones – but what a pile!  It has to be one of the most interesting sites I’ve been to (and I’ve been to a lot!)

Stadium

Although it was first identified in the 1840s, excavation only began in the last 30 years and has only been carried out on a regular basis since 2006.  Even so, last year an application was made to include Kibyra on UNESCOs list of World Heritage Sites.

The settlement dates from the 4th century BC and its residents came from an older site 18km away.  The city took 70 years to build, but most of the infrastructure and public buildings were completed BEFORE anybody moved in! An earthquake in 23AD destroyed the original buildings and those there now were built after this, when the Roman Emperor Tiberius granted the city tax relief for 3 years to enable them to rebuild.

Entrance to Agora

In its prime, Kibyra had about 80,000 residents and was the capital of the Kibyratis region.  This federation had a constitution and strong judicial system and brought together two cultures and four languages.  In 83BC the Romans put an end to the federation and Kibyra became part of Phrygia, but its location on the border and trade routes of several regions (Lydia, Phrygia, Caria) ensured its continued importance.  Its army kept order in the area and provided protection to travellers passing through (for a fee!).  It was also known for the quality of the horses bred there and for metal and leatherwork – all vital for equipping an army.

Another earthquake in 417AD caused damage which due to economic conditions could not be repaired and the population declined until Kibyra was abandoned in about the eighth century.  The ruins are extensive and would take several hours to explore properly but here are some of the highlights...

The stadium is 197metres long and could accommodate up to 10,000 spectators.  The uphill seating had 21 rows, while the downhill stand had only five to prevent the structure from blocking the impressive view of the valley.  Sports events, races and gladiatorial combat would all have taken place there.

Stadium

The Odeon is an impressive building situated next to the 8000-seater theatre.  It was a music hall used for concerts, but also housed meetings to discuss economic issues, announce new laws and judicial proceedings.

Odeon

It has seven doors, five along the front wall and two at the top of the seating area to allow people to enter and leave without disturbing events. The area in front is covered by a huge mosaic, mainly geometric patterns and writing which is apparently a promise by the builders to present the city they love with this work. The building would have had a wooden roof that spanned the 36m space with no vertical supports.

The most impressive feature is a mosaic on the floor area that shows Medusa. Images of Medusa were apparently often used in official buildings as it was believed that her gaze would turn liars to stone!  This one is made up of larger pieces than a normal mosaic (Opus Sectile technique) in five different colours.  It took much work to uncover this mosaic and it is now protected by covers most of the time; I was very lucky to go at one of the rare times that it is on show!

There is also an Agora (market place) with a colonnaded street lined with shops, a huge (2500sqm) bath building with 500sqm of under-floor heating and many tombs.  In fact, an announcement was made yesterday of the uncovering of the biggest tomb on the site.  One of the archaeologists described Kibyra as the ‘Mediterranean Ephesus’ and it is sure to grow in fame and popularity but for now there are so few visitors you can wander round the place undisturbed – and imagine life there two thousand years ago!